Mt. Mary Austin- North Couloir

Mt. Mary Austin is an easy access peak in the Southern Sierra. It is the first mountain along the Baxter Pass Trail up North Fork Oak Creek Canyon in Independence. I have not seen the North Couloir climb listed in any guide nor talked to anyone who knows about it. As a snow climb, it is an easily accessible training climb for the veteran and perfect for a beginner to learn on. It makes for a good day hike.

In May 2001, Dennis Richards and I were hiking up the Baxter Pass Trail to climb the east slopes of Mt. Mary Austin. While passing the north side of MMA at 10,000 ft., we could see a wide snow couloir disappearing in the mountain above. We couldn't see if the upper section was easily passable. The lower part looked reasonably angled and we made a note to return the following year.

The year 2002 was a low snow year in the southern Sierra. If we were to try that north side route, it might need to be in early season in April. With a couloir starting at 10,000 ft., there may be no snow in the lower sections later in the spring. I also was concerned there may be rock steps that would be hidden and passed easily with sufficient early season snow coverage.

April was approaching. Dennis and I couldn't get a weekend for our schedules to work together. So I planned a solo trip and drove up on Thursday afternoon stopping at the Ranch House Café in Olancha. If pork roast is a menu special, get it. Further on down the road, the Baxter Pass Trailhead is one of the lowest trailheads at 6000 ft. It was deserted as I arrived just before dark. It's got a great campsite in the circle of trees at the trailhead.

I woke early and was hiking before dawn by headlamp. There had been several warm days this spring and I was expecting the stream crossings to be difficult with high water. Where was the water? The creek was so low. Was this an indication of the snow level up higher? There were patches of snow on the trail's north slope above 8500 ft. but the south side was completely bare. Was I too late for a snow climb?

The snow level was down to about 9500 ft. as I lost the trail and headed to the base of the North Couloir of Mt. Mary Austin. Across from the couloir on a south-facing slope, there was a flat rock ledge just big enough for a bivy. Snowmelt was running off the rocks nearby, so I wouldn't be melting snow for water; a perfect campsite. I dropped my bag, stove, etc. and geared up for a day climb. Not knowing if this route was going to stop shortly in a dead end, up I went.

The lowest section of the couloir was mixed snow and scree. It had begun to melt out already. After a couple hundred feet, the scree gave out, I put on crampons and with poles in hand continued up the slope. The snow was soft and wet for the first foot or so but was firm underneath. The couloir kept on going. It was wide, a hundred feet or so, and continuous at 30-35 degrees. It's not a straight couloir like the U-notch. It twists every 500 ft. and reminded me of Snow Creek on Mt. San Jacinto.

After 2200 ft. of really enjoyable continuous climbing, the couloir ends on the summit slopes north of the high point. I traversed south to the summit of Mt. Mary Austin (13,040 ft.). The true summit with register is on the southeast mound. I was tired and could feel the altitude with 7000 ft. of gain that day.

The descent is east down exposed talus and then into the Oak Creek drainage. There was snow coverage below the talus in the basin. The soft snow made for plenty of post holing in the bright afternoon sun and I made the slog back to my ledge at the base of the North couloir.

I awoke at dawn and prepared for Saturday's adventure. The cold night had left the snow well frozen and easy to travel over as I headed to Diamond Peak to do the Northeast Couloir. It resembled the North Couloir of Mount Mary Austin except being maybe 5 degrees steeper. So, I headed up snow and talus, go tired of the rock, put on the crampons and again with poles in hand continued up really excellent firm snow.

The couloir has a bit of a twist as it goes up for 1000 ft. and ends at the west-ascending ridge. There is a traverse, then a steep ascent to gain the summit of Diamond Peak (13,126 ft.). It was one of those perfect sunny windless days.

I then descended south toward Black Mt., traversed east then down one of the chutes that would deliver me into the basin between Black and Diamond. It was another posthole fest back to the bivy site. I arrived early, packed up and head out. It was two fun days with 3200 vertical feet of snow climbing. I was glad to get the weekend in with summer just around the corner.

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