The U-Notch

June 25, 2000

by Joe LeMay

We had planned o a trip to the Palisades with two days of climbing. My partner couldn't make it at the last moment and I decided to go up and climb solo. I got a 5:30 start from San Diego on Friday evening and arrived at the trailhead at Big Pine Creek after midnight. Having been conditioned to the Sierras and bear boxes, I didn't know what to do when I found only bear warning signs and no boxes. I found an empty campsite at Upper Sage Flat, tied my food bag 8 ft. off the ground and got into my bag at 12:45. I later found out no bears live on Big Pine Creek.

I parked at the trailhead the next morning and was off by 7:30. I had three days of food, rock shoes, 50M of 8.5mm rope, a set of hexes and nuts, axe and crampons. It was heavy to carry the whole load with lots of ground to cover. It is a really beautiful walk-in from the trailhead at 7500 ft. to the upper sites at 12,000 ft. First along the way is the Lon Chaney's log cabin. It is now used by the Forest Service. Then there are the lakes, including large and beautiful Third Lake. Lots of fishermen were along the way trying their luck in the N. Fork of Big Pine Creek and the lakes. Just above Third lake is Temple Crag, a favorite for long alpine rock routes without too far an approach.

Below Sam Mack Meadow there was only one small patch of snow to cross but after crossing the meadow and ascending the ridge, the terrain changed. The snow soon covered the trail and I kept to the top of the ridge. For the true trail seen after the snow clears is below and east of the ridge crest nearer Temple Crag. Continue east of the terminal moraine at 11,600 ft. Then continue up smooth slabs or snow slopes.

Along the way I found a stream of snow melt. I was glad for the liquid. I had a butane stove and limited fuel, not planning on melting snow. I filled my 3 quart bottles and continued. After 9 hours of hiking I found a flat spot at 11,800 and set up camp. A storm looked like it might be blowing in and I had had a long enough day. It was a warm night parked below the glacier and the stars shined brightly.

Down to a quart and a half of water, I was on the move before 6:00 a.m. and got to the 12,200 ft. high camp just after 7:00. I stripped down the pack to the daily essentials and began the long traverse past Gayley to the U-Notch Couloir.

(Photo- Pal Glacier) The Palisade Glacier from the north at 12,200 ft.

I tried to stay high on the glacier and not loose any altitude that a straight shot at the U-Notch Couloir would have done. The glacier was a smooth snow slope at this time of year. The snow covered all the way to the lower lake with no ice showing. It was well frozen and with ski poles adjusted for the slope, I made use of depressions, never needing crampons. I arrived at the bottom of the U-Notch at 8:45, left the poles and got on the crampons.

The sun had been shining down on the snow for a while during these long days of June but the snow hadn't yet softened. I could see old tracks on the right side below and above the bergschrund and as I approached, there looked an easy path on the right. I stood on the edge and could see what looked like steps on the far right. The bergschrund was about 8 ft. wide, 6 ft. higher on the uphill side and overhung by 4 ft. It was very quiet on the edge, with just a slight trickling from the dripping water from the U-Notch Couloir.

Then with a gush, it happened. The water began running very loudly. I jumped in and looked at all that water dripping down. Would this be the place to refill my water? I pulled out a full bottle, finished it, and moved to the flow. After about 20 seconds and maybe an ounce of water collected, the overhanging snow and the sound of the rushing water worried me. I'd have to make do with half a quart, and pulled out from the overhang.

I moved over to the snow steps and did not like anything I saw. The snow was soft and loose. It didn't hold body weight at all. I made a move onto a block, still well below the lip, and came to the right hand rock wall of the U-Notch Couloir. I guess I'd have to do the easy 5th class rock to get up and onto the snow slope above.

I dropped my pack, removed crampons, and got ready for the short section. Three wraps of webbing around my waist were to serve as a harness and I tied the rope to it and clipped the other end to the pack. I soloed up and pulled the pack up to me. After refitting the crampons and stowing the rope, I carefully stepped onto the snow in the U-Notch Couloir.

The U-Notch Couloir is a 700-foot, 40 degree slope. At this time of year, there was no ice showing. The For the first hundred feet I stayed far right, wishing to first bounce off the rock wall if I should slip toward the bergschrund. The snow was very soft there and didn't feel too secure.

I climbed it all in French technique and as I traversed left, the snow became remarkably firm and stable. It was great climbing out on the left side of the slope. It was also in line with potential rockfall. So I stayed on the right in less than ideal snow conditions and continued up. I noted all the fixed anchors along the wall and figured they would come in handy. I tried to move up quickly into the shade above, but it was just too late and I never reached the moving line of cool firm snow.

About midway there was a trickle of water on the wall. I stopped there and filled my water bottles drinking one in the process. Now I wouldn't have to worry about thirst.

I got off the snow couloir at the scree on the right, and left my crampons. There was a short snowfield above the scree and I made it to the top of the U-Notch (13,640 ft.) at 11:15. Lunch there was cheese and cookies.

Right there in front of me was the Chimney Variation and just west and down 50 ft. was the Clyde Variation. The U-Notch Couloir with the Chimney Variation is sate to be the classic High Sierra route. I had my heart set on the Chimney, and got out the climbing gear for the two pitches to the top. I got on rock shoes and stowed boots into the pack. There was an anchor about 10 ft. up that I climbed to and dropped the pack. I tied the rope to the anchor and clove hitched it to me with a locker. I've been solo leading this way and it goes smoothly, as long as slack is let out before moves are made.

It was half a rope to the very nice flat platform that had no fixed gear, and then another 20 ft. to the two fixed pins that served as the first pitch anchor. On future climbs, I will anchor at the platform or run all the way up. It's probably a full 165 ft. to the top.

I fixed the rope, and began to rap. I had not brought a belay device but did have oval D beaners and used a carabiner brake for the rest of the day. I'm glad I had practices using this brake and didn't have to resort to using a Dulfersitz to rappel with.

I rapped to the lower anchor, shouldered the pack and used a klemheist to ascend back to the upper end. While ascending the next pitch, I saw a rap anchor with lots of webbing, up and left. It looks like it goes harder than 5.6 there. Up and right was very easy, along with having two pins on top to serve as anchors. Again, I rapped back to get the pack and clean the gear.

I finally arrived at the top of the chimney (13,800 ft.) just before 2:00 and was greeted with a cold wind. Very dark clouds were advancing on the Palisades. The summit of North Palisade (14,242 ft.) was up and far away. It was reported to be an hour and I could see the rock band and ramp that would take me there. There was a tremendous view from the top of the chimney. Rain was visible off on the peaks to the west, and it was time for a quick descent before the coming storm. I stayed up for 20 minutes and began the descent from the rap station.

It seemed half a rope to the platform, but the higher pins made a more economical option. The second rap brought me to a hex that had been left during a previous ascent, and a short third rap brought me to the anchor off the ground. I ran the rope through those rings, and dropped to the top of the notch.

I repacked for the descent and started to the base of the scree. The crampons went back on and I began the long series of 25M raps to the bergschrund. When I got to the bergschrund the fixed anchors were perfect to lower off of. I dropped onto the lower end of the lip and began to pull the rope, walking down in the old prints of a previous climber.

Well, after two steps, I shouted, "I'm going in" and fell to my waist through soft snow. I was immediately out and very startled. The bergschrund must have separated in chunks and I fell in between some loose stuff.

Now on high alert, I descended off the steep slope below the bergschrund and onto safer ground. I packed up for the hike back to camp and was there by 6:30.

The storm was coming in. It began to flurry and I decided to begin the hike out. Three hours later I stopped along the trail at 10,200 and slept through the night. I was back moving before 6:00 and got to the car before 8. I had an omelet at the Country Kitchen I Big Pine as my reward for a really enjoyable climb.

The U-Notch is a very fun solo climb and requires very little gear. It makes a perfect 3-day adventure. I've been trying to go light and fast. Cut down that pack weight and have fun.

Comments?

Wed Jul 6 '05 U-Notch Mary in Berkeley (13)

A Los Alpinistas story by Joe LeMay.