Florence Peak The Ramp- North Face

July 1, 2000

by Joe LeMay

This was my first trip to Mineral King. Jana had been to Mineral King several times and wanted me to experience the place she like most in the western Sierras. It's an hour from the main road and gets no day traffic because of its remote location. It was a quiet getaway. We got a campsite just in time for the holiday weekend and spent our first day wandering up to Eagle Lake.

On the second day, I rose early and walked past the ranger station at 4:40 a.m. I packed an axe, crampons, 50M of 8.5mm rope, and passive gear. I planned to do the N. Face of Florence and thought The Ramp II, 5.1, on the left side of the face would be fun.

I crossed Franklin Creek and struck straight up the slope staying about 50 yards east of the creek. I prefer the cross-country routes to staying on trail. There were several areas of flat rock where the effects of glacial debris grinding on its surface could be seen. There were also beautiful groups of wildflowers along this route. It was a high meadow in full bloom on an early morning day.

I passed through the campsites below Franklin Lakes, crossed the dam and continued along the western shore of the lower lake. A ledge system at the far end allowed me to gain the upper reaches and approach the N Face. I stayed far to the east of upper Franklin Lake. There on the face on the left side is a very prominent ramp leading right and up. To the right of the start of The Ramp is The Great Chimney route (III, 5.6). Just above the chimney, a gully leads to the ridge, east of the summit. The Ramp and gully would be my route.

To get to the N face, a 50 yd snowfield had to be crossed. The snow was frozen solid and the sun would not hit it for some time. It was cold and shaded on this face early in the day.

I got out my axe and began cutting steps moving up to the face and gained it at the start of the ramp. Snow covered the first pitch against the wall. I traversed right onto a clean face and got ready for the climb.

It didn't seem too difficult and with rock shoes on. I tied my pack to the rope end and lead off, climbing free. I anchored off, hauled the pack, and began the 2nd pitch. After running it out I got to easier ground, and anchored off, rapped and cleaned the anchor. When I returned to the top anchor, I was at the gully. I dropped the climbing gear back in the pack and began in the gully.

It was filled with snow and by staying to the left, avoided the snow and kept it at 3rd class. I topped to the ridge, got on my boots and continued on 3rd class to the summit of Florence Peak (12,432 ft.)

The big surprise was that on July 1, I was the first to sign the register for 2000. This summit has a beautiful view into Franklin Lake but does not get much attention.

I found a very rapid way down. At the eastern saddle before Franklin Pass, there is a steep scree chute. This leads down to the small lake shown east of Franklin Lakes. It certainly saved time vs. Franklin Pass and had a few areas of wildflowers on the lower ledges.

I hadn't seen another person on the trail all day, but as I joined the trail from the lakes to Franklin Pass, the hordes of holiday backpackers were on their way up. When they asked where I had been, they didn't understand when I pointed to the face and said I had just climbed it. I arrived back at camp at 5:00 to a barbeque and Jana's company.

There are several routes on the north face of Florence Peak ranging from 5.1 to 5.8. This side deserves more attention and is worth the walk in. Franklin Lake is a pretty drainage and worth the early start to get to the sparsely traveled face.

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A Los Alpinistas story by Joe LeMay.