A Whitney Trilogy: Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell, Mt. Carillon

October 1999

by Joe LeMay

I left San Diego on the afternoon of Friday October 1 and got to Whitney Portal after dark. This was my third trip to Whitney Portal this year and I wanted to make it a good trip. The previous trips had been ruined by altitude sickness and dehydration. So I'd take enough time to adjust and have a lot of fun.

A flat spot near the backpackers' camp at Whitney Portal made for a good night with a low temperature of 45F. The next morning I had my wakeup call from the campground host who asked if I was comfortable and said it would be $6. Oh well, I've been there often enough for free.

I wasn't in a hurry to get started, planning to camp only as high as Lower Boy Scout Lake (10,300') on the first night. I got started at 10:30 up the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek with a very light pack under 30 lb. loaded. I spent a very quiet afternoon just a stone's throw east of Lower Boy Scout Lake.

After a night with a low temperature of 35F, I was off at dawn. In the morning, there is a beautiful view of Whitney, Keeler, Day, and Third Needle. My favorite ascent route above Lower Boy Scout Lake is to hug the wall on the south side of the slope between Lower and Upper Boy Scout Lakes. Halfway between the lakes, there is a ramp that leads up and right. Look for water runoff from above to locate it. Its shorter than the route up the center of the slope.

I made good time to Iceberg Lake (12,600'), found a campsite for that night, dropped most of my pack, and continued up the Mountaineers' Route (Cl. 3). Luckily, there was only a party of two well above me and I had no issues with rockfall. Other than lots of loose rock, the Mountaineers' Route gulley is very straightforward.

At the notch at the top of the Mountaineers Route gulley, I considered the 4th class slope beginning there. It had snowed the previous week and this route had not melted out. I opted for the route heading south that would lead to the plateau.

This slope was also covered with snow. Tracks extended quite a way and presented an icy challenge in a few places. I traversed along and up to the summit plateau to Mt. Whitney (14,494'). It was a crowded afternoon on the summit. There were lots of hikers in shorts and t-shirts for this late in the season. The weather did look like it would hold and it was a sunny, windy day.

I reversed my route and climbed back to the notch. When I arrived, there was a party of 10 getting ready to hike down. I saw this and immediately flew down the Mountaineers' Route avoiding the bowling alley of rocks they provided for each other. I could hear them above me bouncing the rocks down the chute. I arrived back in camp to fill up on food and water, and settle in for a comfortable night with a low of 28F.

I awoke and was away before dawn, walking by headlamp for the first 20 minutes. This was the walkout day and I was to take the long way home. I headed up to the Whitney-Russell Pass (13,040') and began dropping and traversing toward Mt. Russell. It was considerably colder in this north side drainage.

I headed up continuous talus slopes passing the Fishhook Arête on its right. I planned to climb the Mt. Russell South Face, Right Side route and wasn't sure which one of the three variations I would do. The variations are: Face Variation (Cl. 3)- climb the headwall by a ledge leading up from right to left, Chimney Variation (Cl. 4)- climb the first chimney to the right of the headwall, Gunther Variation (Cl. 3)- climb the 2nd chimney to the right of the headwall.

I got to the headwall and looked at the three options. They were steep, covered with loose rock and retained their original number ratings. The Chimney Variation was right in front of me so I went over to give it a try. I quickly got my pack stuck in it and since I had no rope to haul with, thought the Face Variation would go better.

Class 3 was certainly sporty and exciting. I climbed onto a few small ledges after several hand and foot jams and gained the summit ridge and the east summit. The wind was blowing hard and ledges on the north side were mostly snow covered. A sharp drop off followed from the snow ledge.

It seemed like a long way to the true west summit. I dropped my pack, and pulled out food, water, and camera. Upon finding the summit register and true summit of Mt. Russell (14,086) the view was certainly worth it. It provides an excellent view of the snow covered NE slopes of Mt. Whitney and a great view north and to Tulainyo Lake, with its deep blue color.

I traveled back to my pack and began the descent of the East Ridge (Cl. 3). Looking down, I could see the long arête line and Carillon in the distance. The snowfall the previous week left its remains covering the north side of the ridge, just where I needed to travel on. The descent became treacherous at times, sloping, snow covered slopes, a big drop-off and no hand holds. There was one section that I wished I had a very short rope for.

I made it down to the Russell/ Carillon Pass (13,280') and continued up Cl. 2 to Mt. Carillon (13,552'). There was an excellent view of Lone Pine Peak from Carillon. The descent down to the N Fork of Lone Pine Creek was a slope to be forgotten. Descending wasn't fun and I don't ever want to ascend that scree-covered mess. I made it easily to the Portal ending the trilogy.

For a long weekend trip, A Whitney Trilogy (Whitney, Russell, Carillon) makes an excellent trip. There is plenty of water along the way and lots of camping options.

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A Los Alpinistas story by Joe LeMay.