Josh

The four days started like most with a day of rest and regrouping, surfing the net, and doing laundry. But I arrived around midnight at Josh. Clear skies and stars. A short stop at the Hidden Valley Campground to check the board and leave a message fir any possible climbing partners in the morning. Then off to Jumbo Rocks Campground. It has become almost routine to cruise the area until a space is found, a quiet area with at least two open spaces so if someone who is already camping there needs a space, one will still be open. Engine off, lights off, and off to sleep.

The next morning was clear, windy, and a little cool. The drive to HVCG was nice. On the side of the road was the pink squareback with the pink trailer. I have seen this rig a couple times and the older lady that drives it but make a mental note to talk to her next time it's possible. She must have an interesting story to tell..

I park at the board, which in itself has become a morning routine. Open the back, get the coffee going and hang out. Lots of people come and go but some faces are now becoming familiar. The guides with their students, I even know what they say in reposnse to the questions that the students always ask and the preprogrammed responses make me smile.

Well morning rush is over and no partners have appeared. Just as well. I'm feeling slow and I would like to finish "A River Runs Through It" anyway. Time passes and old rawhide has something written on her butt "Hello? Hello, are you looking for a partner?" "Yes, I am."

"Hi, my name is John". Well nice to meet you. John is from Australia originally, but he's been working on a dive boat in the Caymans, a fact that surfaces when he sees the dive sticker on my van. He says that he's been climbing with a climbing school for the week, and by the looks of his hands it's been a busy week.

He says that his list includes Double Cross (5.7+****) and Sail Away (5.8-***) and asks if I've heard of them. I say the names sound familiar. I think I can find them without the guidebook. So I grab my pack and off around the corner we go. Double Cross is a moderate climb and could not be closer or easier to get to. This brings up a point that I feel needs to be addressed. Of late, I have lots of heard horror stories of Double Cross being a dangerous lead. This is not just true. All leaders hold the responsibility to understand how to protect a climb and understand the dynamics that a fall will cause. Double Cross is a great lead, and an easy lead to protect. It is just that Double Cross will not be forgiving of sloppy leaders and sloppy belayers.

Here's a case in point:

The climb starts with a 15' part that leads to the crack with a thin part that eats nuts. Below, there is a little gully then a large flat rock that is about 10 feet from the base of the climb. I saw a belayer on this rock. I could see that the climber was rather new. I could see that he had only a nut with a carabiner as he climbed past and that the rope made a sharp angle from the belayer to the climber. I could also see that the belayer wasn't what I call "keeping the rope quiet", which means being smooth while letting out the rope and having just enough slack that the rope doesn't move the pro.

Let's see what could happen if the climber doesn't pull off the little hang just above the rock over in the crack. He falls. Since it's a pull-up, he falls outward, the rope pulls tight, the angle on the pro is now pulling out away from the rock at a right angle and it pops. The climber falls backwards and finds out what it's like to do a backflip for twenty feet onto irregular hard ground or the pro holds and the belayer is drawn to the rock since he is at least ten feet from the base. The belayer trips at the gully and falls in. The natural response is to put both hands out. Boom. No belay!

Climbing is as safe or dangerous as you make it. I don't find any comfort in statistics. When traveling in a pack of sheep your odds are good that you aren't likely to get eaten by a wolf but I would still be looking for ways to make sure I'm not one of the unlucky few. 'Nuff said!

We climb Double Cross, which is a great climb. I then lead Dogleg (5.8**), which I hadn't climbed before, it was really fun. I could see that John was improving his climbing with every climb. We packed up and left for Sail Away.

At the base of Sail away there where three people, and one on top belaying. So I climbed Wild Wind (5.9**). At the top I talked to the belayer, whose name is Ken, and who lets us rap off his rope between belays. John and I sat at the bottom and watched the others climb. I think that I like to watch others climb almost as much as I enjoy climbing myself. Sometimes this is bad in that it makes some groups nervous but I could tell that this wasn't the case with this group. Ken rapped down and I found that he was from Canada and had just met the others in his group. They were from Berkley.

I asked if he had a partner for tomorrow and he said he didn't. The six of us walked out together. Ken said that he was in the regular campground and that there was an open space. Cool! Back at camp I met his friend, Chris.

Chris, reminded me of Doogie Howser's friend not only in looks, but in manners. He was outgoing and always seemed to be moving. Ken was much more laid back and mellow. Den was more the climber and Chris was along for the ride although we could climb when the mood hit him. I found out later that it seemed the mood usually hit him on the more exposed routes and he used that energy to power through the climb.

John said that he was leaving and was stopping by Jeremy's on the way out as we opened the first of the beers. After a few Guinness the plan was made that we would go to town. The first stop was Jeremy's and who should we meet but John. A few more beers and talk of climbs and Illusion Dweller (5.10b*****). Ahh, Ken said that he was at Fisticuffs and saw this climb I told him its name. I said that I would lead it because I wanted it bad. We then went to Kokomos, at Chris's urging, which was as dead as a micro-biologist convention. Off to camp and sleep.

The next morning I woke up unusually early, we had a full day planned and I could hardly wait. But wait I did, since no one else was up. I read the rest of "A River Runs Through It". I am haunted by water.

Ken was up first and the gear was ready. We gave Chris just enough time to eat and we were off. A warm up climb probably would have been a good idea but many a good start is hampered by loss of motivation and The Dweller could be queued up ,so I headed straight to it. It is a climb that isn't bad in any one part. It may only be 5.9 to the boulder problem at the top, which is only 5.10a. but it's 5.9 continuous for 140 feet and then comes the bouldery overhang. I've lead it before and I know what it's like to take a 15 footer from the overhang and not even touch the wall!

I start out. I'm good enough, I'm strong enough, and gosh darn it people like me! There you go - think positive! Hold for hold I can't remember, it's just a blur except for a few moments that I think I will always remember. The part when I place a piece and I look at my rope and there's grease on it. That isn't grease that's my blood, my blood! Twenty feet higher and ten out. Quick, decision. The #3 Metolious should work. Well at least it might hold the rope out of my way when I fall. No! I've worked too hard to get here make the move! The move is made and a good piece is placed. I start to shake and smile. God I love this job. Back to work up a go and to under the overhang and a rest.

I can't mess this up it's too important. This is a vision quest of unfinished business. OK two in the crack, feet high, pull, left reach, right, jam , feet higher, right to the hidden pocket, pull, feet up on the overhang, rock over. Yes! Time to smile :)

Ken came up in great style to the overhang. Do you want any beta? "No, I'll try it on my own", he said. A few moves up, a few moves back. OK what's the beta? He tries again but doesn't use the hand jam. He pulls up any way and it looks like he's going to make it, or fall. He doesn't do either. He down-climbs! A little more beta? This time he makes it! No falls.

We did two more climbs that day at Hound Rock. Ken led White Powder (5.7) and I led An Eye To The West (5.9*). Then it's back to Intersection Rock to do the Flake route (.5.8**).

The next day was Saturday and the mood of the area changes to a point that's palpable. The weekenders have arrived and tension is in the air. The park rangers are in full force and a car horn is my wake up call. I understand weekenders but try to avoid getting caught in their tensions.

Ken has some areas he wants to hit since I am leaving in this afternoon. They include North Overhang (5.9***) on Intersection Rock. South West corner of Headstone (5.6***). And I wanted to do Cryptic (5.8***) and Pope's Crack (5.9***). OK, not the least populated of climbs but I'm an no hurry and can wait and let karma decide which we will get to do.

Ken leads the pitch up to the overhang. We actually did the Overhang Bypass (5.7***) pitch. Then I lead the North Overhang. I could hear Ken puffing so I knew that he was enjoying himself. Now it was Chris's turn. Around the corner he went and the rope went tight like a hookup with a yellow tail. Up again, down again, rest. "Man, I don't think I can do it, wait, I can", and up he goes and cleans the first piece, falls, up again, moves, cleans the last piece, falls, them up to the top with a smile and lots of blood. I asked how he climbed it and he said, "Badly". "Well at least you made it!"

Off to Headstone. Ken leads Headstone without much thought and we follow. Up and over and wait at the base of Headstone for Cryptic while a group starts the climb. The first guy leads it and now the girl gets ready to follow. One mentions the hill. I ask which hill are they talking about? Idyllwild, cool I live there too. I find out that she is just starting climbing and it could be a while, so we move on.

On the way to Echo Rock and Pope's Crack Chris says that he's had enough and we let him off at camp. At Pope's Crack there are a pair on it. We watch as the leader climbs from a distance. He sets up his anchor. The other follows and I can see he is more at home on face climbs. He uses harder face moves and stems that looks tough since his legs are shaking. I say nothing but ready everything to go. He's ten feet from the belay at the start of a easy ramp. I take off and enjoy this lead and imagine it being Open Book on Tahquitz. By the time I get below their belay the follower is past the leader and leading out across the easy ramp to the anchor/rap station.

I set my anchor well below their set up and Ken starts up. By now they are both at the rap station. I can hear the original follower talking/yelling to his partner loud enough so that we can hear him. He says, "That's so fucking rude to start a climb while someones on it!". I have to laugh at his arrogance. How can he expect to go to one of the busiest routes, in the busiest area, on one of the busiest day, in the busiest time of year of a place that is internationally known and expect to have it to himself? The arrogance of humans.

We leave and go back to the camp and eat, have a few beers and off to Kokomos. Kokomos is the dance place at the entrance of the monument. Chris, became a local there overnight and seemed to know everybody. He had found out that for three dollars you could use the shower in the back. When I say the back, I mean in a shack area in the back, but to us it was warm and worth every penny. If you use it please pay the money since the owner likes climbers, now, but when we got there a couple had used the shower without paying and I'm sure it wouldn't take long to spoil the whole thing. It was dance night and now clean and revived we had a great time of pool, dance, and beer. We all met some of the coolest people. Unfortunately, with the time change I didn't get home until five am. Down at five up at seven. God, I ache in places that I used to play.

But, as they say, it isn't that life is so short, it's that death is so long.

Comments?

This forum is powered by Ceilidh ("kay-lee")
Copyright© 1995-2000 Lilikoi Software, Inc. All rights reserved.