A Week in Wyoming's Wind River Range

New Fork Lakes trailhead

We swept through Pinedale early in the morning, buying last minute provisions and a couple of mouse traps. We stopped by the Great Outdoor Store, a particularly well-stocked outdoor store, before heading over to the New Fork Lakes trailhead. The well-graded dirt road wound through thick stands of aspen trees (Populus tremuloides), an occasional clearing allowing the possibility of a camping area. A few of these clearings were occupied by campers, but for the most part we were the only vehicle. Until we reached the trailhead.

The parking lot was almost entirely full of vehicles even though there was no one else around. We pulled into the one vacant corner and spilled out of the Bronco. Throwing down a groundsheet we unloaded the gear and stared in dismay. The pile of equipment was enormous. We took immediate action. We began to eat lunch!

Although we had initially planned on packing in some of our climbing gear, I suggested that we load our packs with the "essentials" before considering whether or not we really wanted to carry the extra hardware. Somewhat to Carl's chagrin, I refused his suggestion that we all three sleep in the one tent. The extra weight was worth the quiet slumber, for me at least! We took the two tents but only one stove and my one set of maps, two ommissions that Carl would later regret. Of course, with a week's worth of food, even though it was freeze-dried, the packs were almost intolerably heavy. No way we were each going to carry an extra 15+ lbs. climbing gear!

By this time, satiated after our leisurely lunch and careful packing, the day was beginning to wear on but we thought we had better set off lest we end up spending the night by the car (even though that would mean one day's less food to carry). There was just one last chore; setting the mouse traps. We put as much food as we could into secure boxes, such as the cooler, and arranged the traps between the crates. Lock the doors. One last check and we were off!

The trail passed through more stands of aspen before emerging into the clear and then it lay high up the bank on the north side of Twin Fork Lakes. Turning around the east side of the lakes, we came across a path winding upwards. We turned off to explore and soon came upon a really magnificent campsite. It must have been the work of horsemen. At the centre was a large A-frame structure built of logs and covered with foliage-rich boughs. It commanded a view across the lakes that was magnificent! Unfortunately, we had only begun our journey and reluctant to waste any more of the remaining precious daylight, tempting as it was to throw down our packs, we chose to continue.

It started to drizzle. We paused to don our raingear, then on we went.

We followed the trail as it wound back and forth across the watercourse in New Fork Canyon. When the trail took a dogleg to the north, it started to ascend a narrower part of the canyon. This seemed like an opportune place to make camp. Down here, by the river, just before the trail entered the narrow canyon.

Day 2

The next morning we set off up canyon. The weather was kind. We hiked in shirts and shorts, gazing in awe at the canyon walls as we entered New Fork Park. Where Palmer Canyon entered from the right, we stopped to eat lunch, enjoying the view. The wildflowers were becoming more plentiful and in spots the trail seemed to be winding though a garden plush with blossoms of all colours.

The trail began to ascend the canyon in earnest and we, in turn, began to spread out. Me in front, Patsy in the middle and Carl bringing up the rear. Every hour or so I would stop and wait for Patsy and Carl to catch up, but the stops became more and more unbearable as they both grew longer and the flies became thicker. We were under constant attack by both Deer and Horse flies, the latter less common but sporting a more vicious bite.

Finally the trail turned east and began towards the Lozier Lakes. I stopped to wait near a small pool which commanded a spectacular view down to the Lozier Lakes. Patsy soon caught up and we were joined by a man and his dog coming from the other direction. This turned out to be Ron Adkison, author of a series of hiking guidebooks, including "Hiking in California". We discussed the attributes of various guidebooks while we waited for Carl.

Carl wasn't a very happy camper when he finally appeared. He was really tired and told me that if he'd taken a look at the map and seen where I wanted to go he'd have vetoed the idea right then. Also, if he'd had his own stove he'd have stopped some time ago. Fortunately, we were almost there. We hiked down to the lake and took over a campsite that another couple was just vacating.

It was only mid-afternoon but we were all three of us pooped from carrying our overly heavy backpacks up the 2,000 feet of elevation gain.

We began heating water for hot drinks and showers, hoping that the flies might be more prone to overlook us if we smelt better! Patsy snapped a photo of me mid-shower. When it came her turn to shower I searched all over but she'd hidden the camera somewhere where I couldn't find it. Carl just wanted to rest and we were unable to persuade him that he'd feel much better after a warm shower. Yet another reason to be glad we brought two tents!

We set off again early the next morning. This time we had even further to go. We traversed an easy, flat, alpine section before heading down to Clark Lake where several groups were camped. The flowers were really abundant here; it was a verdant paradise testing our resolve to continue but we still had a long way to go. We pressed on down the canyon to Trail Creek Park, stopping for lunch at a stream crossing with particularly vicious flies.

We dropped down into Green River Canyon and started trudging our way up to Cube Rock Pass. But this wasn't so much of a trudge. The flies had disappeared and the scenery was spectacular, whether we were looking up to the head of the canyon or north towards Three Forks Park. The trail disappeared here and there amongst the talus. It just didn't seem possible to get horses up here and we could now see why there had been a sign down below that this trail was "not recommended for stock animals". Good!

We reached Dale Lake and then Cube Rock Pass. Patsy and Carl later mentioned that they had seen the Cube Rock but somehow I missed it, too busily engaged in running around looking for photo opportunities.

It was only mid-afternoon but again we were exhausted, albeit feeling a little stronger than the day before. Even Carl was keeping up quite well.

We headed down towards Peak Lake, wondering where we should camp. This became somewhat of a dilemma when we realised that the only areas suitable for pitching a tent were miniature subalpine meadows. There were two other groups already camped at Peak Lake, one at a promontory by the lake and the other at the lake's outlet. We opted to make camp next to a small lake above Peak Lake itself.

We were to spend three nights at Peak Lake happy in the knowledge that we wouldn't have to shoulder the backpacks for three whole days. Three days during which we would eat our way through a significant portion of our heavy food supply.

Part of a Los Alpinistas story. Text and photographs by Richard J. Hughes.